Fun at the Feria del Agricultor (Farmer’s Fair)

On Saturdays, the town of Aserri hosts a Feria del Agricultor https://feria-del-agricultor-de-aserri.wheree.com/. We were very excited to shop there not only for the prices, but also for the experience (Debra LOVES a farmer’s market)!  It requires an additional walk down a hill (and then up a hill) but it is worth it.  The selection of fruits and vegetables is always a surprise, and there are several items we have yet to identify to try. Prior to entering the fair, we are required to wash our hands at the stations located at the entrance. But the washing station overlooks some of the most beautiful irises I have ever seen. I have tried to identify it and have settled on the “Sunset Glory.” What do you think?

Our “haul” has been excellent thus far. Everything is not always available on each Saturday, and we made the mistake of attending too late one day and found “slim pickins.” But it is always interesting and after attending several times, we are starting to identify some preferred vendors. We also get a delicious fruit drink called “frescos” when we leave as a grand reward for our efforts. These marvelous beverages are made from natural fruit juices and it is almost impossible to choose just one flavor, so you don’t! Here is a picture of our initial farmer’s fair selections—all for $11.

Careful! Those red round peppers to the right of the platano (plantain) are Rocoto peppers and are not for the faint of heart! Only one vendor carried them and we only found them after asking several other vendors if anyone at the fair sold “pimientos picantes” (hot peppers). Rocoto peppers tolerate cooler climates and have a unique black seed. Since I had wanted the “hot” pepper, I was to first to slice off a bit. It was not very spicy and I was disappointed. So I sliced off a bit for Andrew. Much to our chagrin, the piece I had must have been tasting was playing a trick on us because Andrew’s bit was rudely hot. I then tried another piece and was rewarded with the heat of a Scotch Bonnets!! I sliced it up and put it in an off brand of Lizano (Salsa Ingles) so that the heat would infuse into the salsa.  It is delicious and provides a nice kick (for DEBRA).

A more refreshing fruit is one of Andrew’s favorite–the papaya–and is ridiculously inexpensive. Below, Andrew demonstrates the easy process of preparing the papaya.

Notice the smooth technique Andrew uses to maximize the clearing out of the seeds and fibrous material.

But wait, there is more! After snagging a fabulous price on 2 cacao pods, we decided to not only try the flesh and the bean, but also to try to ferment and dry the beans. Here are a few pictures and videos of our process!

Andrew proudly displays the cacao pods. Ordinarily, cacao pods are really pricey, but we got these beauties for 1500 colones or $3.45 US.

Andrew carefully cuts open the cacao to display all its glory! Debra is not a fan of the sliminess of the white cacao pulp. However, this pulp is essential for fermenting the beans, which develops the chocolate’s flavor.
Andrew provides his opinion about the pulp!
And now he tries the bean!

Not chocolatey enough yet!  But we put the beans in a dish and loosely followed some directions to promote fermentation of the beans. Afterwhich we will dry them, roast them, and peel them to get a tiny bit of chocolate. We will keep you posted as to our success!

In the meantime, Andrew conducted research and trekked to several stores to find real Costa Rican chocolate and we consoled ourselves with some local iterations of the cacao bean! The package in pink contains “guayabita,” a small, aromatic fruit from the guava family. It lends an interesting flavor to the chocolate, which Andrew really enjoys. The chocolate itself is so rich and delicious due to a higher percentage of pure chocolate than mass-market bars in the U.S. It is difficult (if not impossible) to resist eating our entire supply in one sitting.

Walking, Flora and Fauna from atop our Mountain in Aserri

Since we are trying to keep our travel limited to walking and public transportation, and minimal taxis, it is sometimes quite an undertaking just to go to the grocery store. Due to the pronounced inclines here, Andrew provides much encouragement to me as we take many rests along the way for my benefit! He has even written a song for the “road” to the tune of “If You’re Happy and You Know it!”

🎶La colina es empinada; la colina es empanada!  La colina! La colina! La colina es empinada!

🎶El camino es empinado; necessitamos descansar! El camino! El camino! El camino es empinado!

🎶Las escaleras son empinada; necessitamos descansar! Las escaleras! Las escaleras! Las escaleras son empinadas!

For a translation, go to Google Translate!

The birds we have seen in such a short time here have been amazing! Needless to say, my camera is not equipped to capture these beauties before they escape my lens so I have shamelessly borrowed some pics and included the links where I collected them. I will continue to keep my eyes peeled for some of the other common/not-so-common birds in our area.  

For those of you who like your fauna on a smaller scale, we discovered some interesting insect and arachnid neighbors.

Our first introduction to an intriguing ant was by way of the kitchen floor. We discovered that these ants are attracted to light and therefore, in the evening while are cooking, we noticed them coming in from under the door. We shooed them out and then put up a barrier under the door and that has, for the most part, taken care of those nightly visitors.

However, one day when Andrew was out in the orchard, he discovered the amazing live of these ants. They are Leaf-Cutting ants, the likes of which have walked the earth for millions of years. The ants cut and carry leaves, sometimes three times their own weight, back to their nest, which may be hundreds of feet away.

The trails they make are distinctive and I followed it down the hill as far as I could and then back up toward the house and around the yard as far as I could.

The ants take these leaf (and some flower) clippings to cultivate their own fungal garden. This fungal garden serves as the source of their food!  If you would like to know more, go to The Secret Life of leaf-Cutting Ants in Costa Rica.

Tucked into the branches of the orange trees is a bromeliad in the Tillandsia family making its home. These are epiphytes (air plants) which capture their waste and nutrition from the air! If you were to ask my daughters, they would assure you that bromeliads are some of my favorite plants!

And now for something which appears a little more formidable: the Golden Silk Orb Weaver or Banana Spider. Very scary to look at but are considered docile. They can bite but their venom is considered low toxicity (although I don’t plan to find out!). Their webs are huge and they seem to tolerate multiple members hanging out on the same web. The females are large (up to 6 inches with leg span), while the males are tiny. They are, indeed, beautiful – from a distance!

Aserri Welcomes Us!

Just south of San José is Aserri, a town near the Talamanca mountain range, with a mountainous terrain, and views overlooking greater San José. Our AirBnB is situated atop a very steep road and will make for some very “invigorating” treks to downtown Aserri. Our host Marco was so gracious and the 2-story house was everything we imaged. I called it the Lime House, when we were deciding where to stay, and the colors throughout the house live up to its name in shades of green, mango, and yellow. It is the largest we have selected so far with two porches, 3 bedrooms and 3 bathes. The kitchen is well-appointed and we have a washer and a dryer. Oh dear! I am going to be spoiled again.

We were greeted with a perfect double rainbow!

The views from the house are amazing. Looking out the kitchen window, back porch, or my bedroom, I have a bird’s eye view with an amazing panorama.

Bananas in the sideyard. If only I could reach them!!

A view of the side yard leading to the orchard! I was excited about the oranges there but, alas, either I am not selecting ripe ones, or it is too early for ripeness, but I haven’t found them sweet enough. However, I boiled some to make a additive to my vinegar for cleaning.

Here is a spectacular view of San José from the back porch. You can’t see Aserri from this angle, but you definitely come to realize just how large the capital is.

Behind us are magnificent hills up the mountain. The greenery is just breathtaking!

And what can appear more magical that the lights of the city which twinkle and sparkle through my bedroom window.

And then in the morning, San José disappears…

…but reappears again as the rain cherry picks it way across San José…

…until it reaches my bedroom porch.

Final notes in Cartago!

One day which preparing our daily Gallo Pinto, I noticed several sheep wandering the intersecting street. I was concerned that they had escaped and would be hit by traffic. My worries were for not. A moment later, a man, accompanied by another sheep, came strolling down the street, grocery bag in hand, and the sheep approached him and began to follow. He walked slowly and the sheep had a great time bounding back and forth across the street, even blocking the progression of a car whose driver waited patiently for the man to round up his herd. The activity occurred on several days, so I imagine both the sheep and the drivers have come to an agreement.

The weather has been exemplary. While we are still on the tail end of the rainy season, there is usually at significant bit of sunlight each day. The nights have been cool, though not unbearable, and with the sun rising around 5:30 am and setting around 5:30pm, I am usually pretty snuggled up reading or writing by the time it starts to cool down.

The places we stayed in within the cities Alajuela and Cartago were typical “tico” apartment, small, made of cinder block, coated with plaster, with tin roofs and barred entryways and windows. Each apartment was distinct but are situated next to each other, sometimes sharing a wall. The front gate often opens onto a covered driveway where the car was parked, with a patio adjacent. Below is a pic of one apartment ready for the Christmas holiday! Casa Mariposa was particularly small, one bedroom with two beds, and the minimal kitchen layout. A tiny gated porch faced the street. However, due to the proximity of inexpensive food at the sodas, there was little need for cooking anyway. In Cartago, the layout included 2 bedrooms, and a larger kitchen. Here is where I was able to starting experimenting with local dish preparations. The kitchen in both locations consisted of a countertop double burner, a microwave, a small fridge, a rice cooker, some misc. dishes, pots, and pans, some kitchen tools. Apartment’s Maria “J” also hosted a bullet blender. It was interesting to rethink how to prepare foods without the usual array of kitchen gadgets but we managed delightfully with a minor purchase of complementary tools.

The most challenging was figuring out the washer arrangement. The machine is not a push-a-button-and-walk-away variety but rather a multi-step operation consisting of turning the dial to wash or drain, and a lever to select the washer side or the rinse/spin side. The water must be added by turning on the hose, and you must adjust the amount of water according to the load size by turning the water off. Load laundry soap, let it dissolve, and then add the laundry. Set the agitation speed and timer. When the timer goes off, turn the dial to drain. When the tub has drained, transfer the laundry to the rinse/spin side. Flip the lever to the rinse/spin side and turn the dial back to wash. Set the timer. Allow the water to fill and rinse the laundry while spinning. After the laundry has rinsed (and it could take a few times), turn off the water and set the timer. This is the spin cycle. Hang the laundry on the clothes-line (our was indoors). Let air-dry for about 24 hours. And behold, clean laundry!

While our spanish is not nearly sufficient (though Andrew’s is MUCH better than mine), we have met some marvelous people helping us muddle through. We met a wonderful young man at a grocery store, Tian, who was very excited to practice his English with us and told us of his dreams to move to Canada to work for Amazon. He was particularly interested in French and we directed him to the area of Quebec. We had come in looking for snacks and left with 6 eggs carefully placed in a plastic bag and a great conversation.  We left Cartago with some great memories as move forward to Aserri!

Adventure to Finca Cristina (CAFÉ CRISTINA)

Our second reason for selecting Cartago was to vist a Coffee Farm, a “finca.” The day we we were to, we realized that we had missed the information regarding the tour times on the website, so we resigned ourselves to the fact that at least we might enjoy a walk around and a cup of coffee. We arrived to find that we had, indeed, missed the tour. To our delight, the co-owner of Finca Cristina, Ernie Carman, generously offered to show us around anyway, and we had a wonderful and informative time moving through the process, from coffee plants to the roaster. We even took a turn at raking the coffee cherries set out to dry. It is important to note that Finca Cristina is small, family-owned farm, mill, and roasting establishment producing coffee which is organically grown in a traditional, natural biodiverse polyculture vs the monoculture (growing crop species over a large area) environment. The practice of polyculture, growing multiple species of plants together in the same place at the same time, benefits the soil and utilizes natural pest and weed control. I was amazed to find huge green bean plants growing beside the coffee beans! And, yes, there were cacti, too! I was especially interested in the various tools used for each step and how Ernie had crafted many of the machines from parts he had thrifted and modified to engineer his process. Andrew was excited to try a coffee cherry as he had read about some of the benefits of the fruit. We highly recommend taking an official tour as you will never take another sip of coffee for granted when you realize all of the “magic” that goes into producing that cupful. We also recommend spending some time with Ernie, whose wonderful stories about the process and decisions made for the farm really brought the process to life. Thank you, Ernie! We, of course, came away with bags of coffee (Medium and Light Roasts) and coffee cherry tea to try.

More About Architecture and Culture in Cartago

With Andrew leading the way, we walked a few streets over to the Ruins of Cartago, another church, Santiago Apóstol Parish, built in the mid 16th century and destroyed by an earthquake, for the first time, in 1630. Each rebuild, over the decades, were subsequently destroyed by earthquakes expecially the plans for the last rebuild when the 1910 Santa Monica earthquake leveled much of Cartago. Located in the absolute center of town, with serene gardens and a walking path, the ruins project a relaxing, comptemplative vibe.

The most prominent nearby statue of the Virgen de los Angeles Monument watches over the ruins. While we were taking pictures, Ivan, a tourist guide on holiday with his friends, came over and engaged us in a lively discussion about the cultural differences between San Jose, the capital, and Cartago. He indicated that the ruins served as a good meeting place frequented by the locals. We discussed the cultural differences between San José (the capital) and Cartago (former capital). According to Ivan, San José often appeals to more tourists, and has more avenues for nighttime entertainment such as dancing (which is what we were looking for). Cartago seems to focus more on local culture and history. It was interesting, though, that in Alajuela, the local folks were more inclined to wish us “Buen dia” as we walked past whereas in Cartago, people appeared to be a little more reserved. However, Ivan was very chatty and we thoroughly enjoyed the conversation.

To the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de los Angeles

At last, we venture to one of two primary destinations when visiting Cartago. The Basilica de Nuestra Senora de los Angeles- Basilica of Our Lady of the Angels- hosts “La Negrita,” one of the Black Madonnas. Inside, the Basilica is lovely, as expected, a mixture of colonial architecture  and 19th century Byzantine style. Originally built in 1639, it was partially destroyed by an earthquake and the current building dates back to 1939. The fine stained-glass windows (32), hand-painted interiors and ornate side chapels featuring carved-wood altars were replendant. The stations of the cross and other biblical stories are beautifully represented, and a string quartet playing softly in the background while worshippers knelt within the pews or at the altars.

Represented in paintings and statues ( the latter made of wood or stone, painted and unpainted) and found throughout the world, Black Madonnas are those religious icons depicted with dark skin.  My interest in these madonnas lies in the similarities with the black skin represented in earlier “mother,” “goddess,” and fertility figures such as Osiris (eqyptian), Andromeda (Ethopian), Artemis (Ephesus), and the proliferation of  Sumarian Goddesses (among the oldest in the world), and tracing back to “Venus” figures from the Upper Paleolithic period. Here you find the a Black Madonna affectionately known as “La Negrita.” There is a delightful story about the discovery of the “la Negrita” statue (volcanic stone, jade and graphite) in 1635 by a peasant girl of humble origin who was puzzled by the statue’s mystical return to the hillside each time she moved it to her house. The discovery led to the construction of the basilica on tht spot. The “La Negrita” is venerated on Día de la Virgen de los Ángeles (Day of the Virgin of the Angels), Costa Rica’s most important religious festival and a national holiday held annually on August 2nd. The event is marked by a massive national pilgrimage, known as the Romería, to the Basilica of Our Lady of the Angels in Cartago.  It is estimated that half of the country’s population—around 2.5 million people—walk from all parts of the nation to the basilica in Cartago. The most popular route is the approximately 25 km (15.5 miles) walk from San José to Cartago. The Negrita, a mere 20 cm tall, has become the symbol of unity for all social groups in Costa Rica and promotes the emancipation of women and recognition of their role as a vital and sacred part of the community. So I sat in the Basilica and thought about the rise and fall of women throughout history in light of reverence, respect, and power.

Cooking Tico in Cartago

Since food is definately one of the reasons we selected Costa Rica, we were very anxious to not only try eating the local foods but also to try our hand a cooking the local dishes. Gallo Pinto is a traditional Central American meal comprised of beans and rice, Anecdotally, the origin of the word “gallopinto” arises from the resemblance of the combination of colored beans (black or red) and white rice to a rooster with speckled feathers. In Costa Rica, the dish includes Salsa Lizano, a vegetable-based condiment, a golden, tan colored, thin-textured, pourable sauce that is fairly salty with a warm, round flavor of cumin and a bit of pepper. If anyone tries to tell you that Worcestershire Sauce is a good substitute, please inform them that they are wrong! The dish is accompanied by fried or scrambled eggs, and we added onions, bell pepper, and garlic. It also called for cilantro, but, as many of you may know, I am not a fan. More traditional complements include “natilla,” a thinner, milder version of sour cream, a crispy slice of fried white cheese (“queso frito”), plantains, sliced avocado, a corn tortilla, and a strong cup of coffee. We have not added the natilla yet or the fried white cheese, but I think we came pretty close on our first tries. Here is a great recipe: https://stripedspatula.com/gallo-pinto/. And here is a pic of our first try!

Andrew tried “Cas,” a tangy, guava-like fruit drink very popular in Costa Rica. I found it to be just a little too sweet for my tastes! Some fruits, such as papaya and mango, are in abundance at a very reasonable price while apples and grapes which is often the opposite in the U.S. For example, comparing in U.S. dollars, a 1kg papaya costs about $1.42 (and often less) in CR whereas it costs $2.52 in the U.S. 1kg of apples (3-4) are priced around $.99 in the U.S. compared to $4.20 in CR. As always, it all depends on whether the fruit is grown locally or imported. Of course, bananas, plantains, pineapple and mango are also abundant so I won’t be missing apples1

And speaking of plantain, I have actually found my favorite new breakfast and dinner complement: pan-fried plantain (platano). It is so easy and depending on how ripe the fruit is, you can get slightly different flavors and textures. If less ripe (green), it is more starchy, earthy, similar to a potato. If it is fully ripe, it is intensely sweet, with molasses/banana like flavor. I have tried putting salt or sugar on them immediately after pulling them out of the oil. Either way is spectaculary delicious!

But perhaps the most “fun” we have had in our food experiments so far has been purchasing treats from Helados Granados Ice Cream Shop.  For the generous sum of less than $2, you can enjoy some of the richest flavors ever in ice cream. One special flavor is natilla and strawberry or raspberry. The gentle flavor of this sour cream counterpart lent a creamy base of freshness to the fruit. I, of course, preferred the chocolate, but if we had extended our stay, I am sure I would have gone through the entire menu!

And finally, a picture perfect lettuce to end today’s post!

On to Cartago

It took 2 taxis, 2 busses and and a 16 minute walk between bus terminals to reach our destination in Cartago. Because we had mapped out our journey prior to arriving in Costa Rica, we had very few snafus in making the connections. The bus system is comprised of separate bus companies, each with their own terminals and it is key to know which bus goes where before boarding. We did not encounter a ticket office, paying the transport directly to the driver, and we were grateful for the kind folks who directed us to the correct bus. At the first station, I approached someone coming out of the Bus Station office and she was not only walked us to the applicable bus but pointed out which line to stand in. At the second station, a woman selling sandwiches by the bus informed us that we were taking the correct bus.

The ride from Greater Metropolitan Area of Alajuela and San Jose to Cartago provided a distinct change regarding the vegetation. While San Jose reminded me greatly of the congestion in many cities, with green spaces limited to empty lots and parks, the route gave way to a open spaces rolling with a myriad of vegetation. The air also felt less humid as we climbed up into the province of Cartago. We passed Tres Rios, one of the eight recognized coffee production areas, and it was exciting to anticipate a trip to visit a coffee farm. Our next AirBnB was just a few blocks from the reason (the Basilica of Our Lady of the Angels) I had selected Cartago as a temporary location, and the facilities provided were a step up in space and convenience.  

Our apartment at Apartment Maria “J” was on the top left of the photo and commanded a lovely view of the street below and mountains in the distance. While we missed our favorite “soda” (small, local, mom-and-pop open air restaurant generally serving only traditional foods) in Alajuela, the locale was still very walkable with venduleros (greengrocers who sell mostly fresh produce), pulperías (small neighborhood stores which sell basic household items and foodstuffs from behind a counter), and roving vendors going up and down the streets in a truck or on foot shouting in a sing-song “A..gua..cates! Muyyyyyy…bueno!” Because avocados do have a precious window between just-right and ruined, it makes sense to sell them quickly. Even at 3 for $2.00, it is best not to waste them. And with so many opportunities to buy and cook our own food, we only ventured to a soda one time.